What is Castle Mountain?

Castle Mountain
From the Trans-Canada Highway
Elevation	2,766 metres (9075 ft)
Location	Alberta, Canada
Range	Sawback Range (Canadian Rockies)
Topo map	NTS 82O/05
First ascent	1884 by Arthur P. Coleman
Easiest route	scramble (NE)

Castle Mountain is located within Banff National Park in the Canadian Rockies, approximately half-way between Banff and Lake Louise. While looking nearly impenetrable from the Trans-Canada Highway, the peak can be ascended from the backside on the northeastern slopes. The trail to Rockbound Lake leads hikers around the eastern side.

The mountain was named in 1858 by James Hector for its castle-like or fortress appearance. Following the post-war visit of U.S. president Dwight D. Eisenhower, the name was changed to Mount Eisenhower. Eventually, public pressure forced the name to be changed back in 1983 to its original but an isolated pinnacle at the southeastern end is now called Eisenhower Tower.

The massif contains several high points including Helena Ridge (2862m), Stuart Knob (2850m) and Television Peak (2970m), the latter being named for the TV repeater located on top. Technicians use a helicopter rather than the long trudge to the top.

Scramble Route

While the peak presents a formidable challenge to climb when viewed from the highway, the mountain can be ascended by first hiking to Rockbound Lake which takes one to the easier backside. A break in a cliff band provides access to a route above the lake. The ascent is a very long day when undertaken from the trail head and can easily require 12 hours for a return trip. This can be shortened considerably by camping at Tower Lake just below the headwall leading to Rockbound Lake (camping not permitted at Rockbound). While the route is primarily a long slog, there is no discernible trail once one reaches the top of the "big hill" overlooking the lake and requires moderate scrambling abilities and a bit of route finding to ascend the gully leading to the upper bench. Helena Ridge is basically a scree slog although a lingering snow field in the gully above the big hill may provide some relief. Snow patches often linger on the upper routes even in late summer so an ice axe should be considered.

Climbing Routes

• Bass Buttress
• Brewer Buttress
• Ultra Brewers
• Eisenhower Tower

External links

• Castle Mountain on Peakfinder - more peak history
• Castle Mountain on Bivouac.com

•  • [ e] Canadian Rockies
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